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As
modernity takes hold, traditions are falling to one side. Spirituality as a guide for
conduct in everyday life is something of the past; now we turn to Science for answers.
Ironically as Mac Donald's and Pizza Huts are popping up everywhere, the traditional way
of eating is also making a come-back. What our grandmothers knew all the time is now being
confirmed by modern science : a diet which is fundamentally based on grains, vegetables
and fruits with meat and dairy products used sparingly and as flavoring, is a healthy one.
Furthermore, some combinations are better than others, because they complement each other
for perfect nutrition. The Turkish Cuisine sets an example in these respects. The recent
"food-pyramid" endorsed by the United States Department of Agriculture resembles
age-old practices in ordinary households. Even the well-known menus of boarding schools or
army kitchens, hardly known for their gourmet characteristics, provide excellent nutrition
that can be JUSTIFY with the best of today's scientific knowledge. One such combination,
jokingly referred to as "our national food", is beans and
pilaf, accompanied by pickles and
quince compote - a perfectly nourishing combination which provides the essential
proteins,
carbohydrates and minerals. Another curious practice is combining spinach with
yogurt. Now
we know that the body needs calcium found in the yogurt to assimilate the iron found in
the spinach
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Yogurt, a contribution from the Turks to the
world, has also become a
popular health food. A staple in the Turkish diet, it has been known all along for its
detoxifying properties. Other such beliefs, not yet supported by modern
science, include
the role of onion, used liberally in all dishes in strengthening the immune
system; garlic
for high blood pressure and olive oil as a remedy for forty-one ailments. The complicated
debace concerning mono-and polyunsaturated fats and the good and bad cholesterol is
ridiculously inadequate to evaluate olive oil. Given what we know about health food today
one could even envy the typical lunch fare of the proverbial construction worker
who, like
all his kind, shouts "endearing" words to the
passing-by females, while eating bread,
feta cheese and fresh grapes in the summer and bread and tahini helva in the
winter.
The variety of pastry turn-overs with cheese or ground meat, meat
pide, or kebabs are the fast food for millions of working people. These are all prepared
entirely on the premises using age-old practices.
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One of the main culprits
in the modern-day diet is the snack, that horrible junk food designed to give a quick
sugar-high to keep one going for the rest of the day.
Again, modern science has come to
the rescue, and healthy snacks are now being discovered. Some of these are amazingly
familiar to the Turks! Take, for example, the "fruit roll-ups". Visit any
dried-food store that sells nuts and fruits, and you will see the authentic
version, such
as the sheets of mashed and dried apricots and grapes. In these stores, there are many
other items that await discovery by some pioneering entrepreneur to the Western
markets.
Another wholesome snack, known as "trail
mix" or "gorp", is
well-known to
all Turkish mothers, who traditionally stuff a handful of mixed nuts and raisins in the
pockets of their children's school uniform to snack on before exams. This practice can be
traced to ancient fables, where the hero goes on a diet of hazelnuts and raisins before
fighting with the giants and dragons, or before weaving the king a golden
smock. The
Prince always loads onto the mythological bird, the "Zümrüt Anka", forty
sacks of nuts and raisins for himself, and water and meat for the bird that takes him over
the high Caucasus Mountains...
As far as food goes, it is reassuring to know that we are
re-discovering what is good for our bodies. Nevertheless, one is left with the nagging
feeling that such knowledge will always be incomplete as long as it is divorced from its
cultural context and spiritual traditions. The challenge facing modern Turkey is to
achieve such continuity in a time of genetic engineering, high-tech mass production and a
growing number of convenience-oriented households. But for now the markets are vibrant and
the dishes are tastier than ever, so enjoy!
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